I've been living in
Those days the border in between the two halves of the
Due to the political situation on the island the northern part has spend most of the last 34 years in a kind of Sleeping Beauty-like slumber. While the tourism in the South was booming the northern part stayed rather unaffected, apart from the more developed area around Kyrenia, and remained on of the last surviving untouched areas in the
However, this article is not about the political situation on the island. Its sole use is to introduce you to a part of the world I came to know very well and love because of its beauty.
With the possibility of using a direct flight to the airports in the south, from where the journey to whichever hotel accommodation in the north is short, things have changed quite a bit. Already in 2002, when we left, there was a lot of building work going on and new hotels and bungalow complexes have been erected with the speed of light. Not a good sign in my book as I fear that building regulations might not be strict enough to preserve the beauty of this region. Nevertheless, Northern Cyprus is still relatively unspoiled and you can find kilometres of golden beaches with hardly any visitors and won't have to worry that you might not be able find enough space to place a face towel on the sand.
Kyrenia is the most developed town in this part of
Kyrenia sports a tiny but charming yacht harbour. Many restaurants can be found in this scenic location and it gets very lively at night. The huge old crusader castle overlooks the harbour, a visit is a must if visiting Kyrenia.
Another crusader castle, St Hilarion, can be found a short drive from Kyrenia. It is a bit of a climb to reach it but the views are more than rewarding.
The 14th century Lusignan abbey in Bellapais is famous for its beauty. The village is home to a few hotels which all offer breathtaking views.
The surrounding new parts of the city are utterly unattractive. There are a few hotels in
This region is much less developed than the buzzing Kyrenia and you might be able to have a huge stretch of magnificent beach all to yourself.
The highlight in this area is certainly the ruins of the ancient town
Just a stone's throw away is the quiet Monastery of St Barnabas. Here you can see some of the artefacts that have been found at
Near Lefke, at the west side, you can find the remnants of the great ancient city Soli. Here you can visit the Roman Amphitheatre, an early Christian Basilica and some stunning mosaics.
Drive up the panhandle towards Karpaz, the easternmost part of the
The most popular food is, apart of Kebas, probably meze. There are some wonderful meze restaurants in Yeni Bogazici, near
To get a taste of the local cuisine I have opted for a recipe that is very popular in my family:
Ingredients
1 pack of macaroni
For the meat layer:
400 gram minced meat (lamb or beef)
1 handful parsley, finely chopped
1 glove of garlic
1 onion, finely chopped
For the sauce
1 pack Halloumi (Helim) cheese, grated
1 handful of cheddar, grated
6 tablespoons of plain flour
2 eggs
Preparation:
Preheat oven to 190 degrees
1. Lightly grease an oven proof dish to prevent the makarna from sticking. Heat some olive oil in a pan and fry the onion until transparent, then add the mince. When the mince is browned take off the hob and add the parsley.
2. In the meantime cook the macaroni according to the instructions on the packet. Make sure they come off al-dente and not too soft. Drain the pasta and fill half of it into the oven proof dish.
3. To prepare the sauce add milk a saucepan and heat on low to medium heat, add the flour bit by bit. Stir well while mixing.
4. When the mixture starts to thicken take it from the fire.
5. Give grated Hellim and eggs into a bowl and mix well, add the milk/flour mixture.
6. Pour half of the sauce over the pasta layer in the dish and mix well. Add the minced meat and then add the remaining macaroni on top. As a last layer add the remaining sauce and sprinkle the grated cheddar on the top.
7.Cook for about 40 minutes until golden.
Don't cut the pasta immediately after taking it out of the oven but let it to cool down for a while. My husband's family usually eats this dish at room temperature, I prefer it slightly warmer.
Serve with yogurt and salad.
Click here for a travel guide to Cyprus